Avonlea and Green Gables

August 16^th, 2016

When we were told to take the tunnel under the road to the main building of the hotel for breakfast I pictured a dungeon-like passage with iron sconces holding tar torches against the damp rock walls. Maybe even a few spiders crawling into dark corners and one or two rats skittering about. Listening to Anne-With-An-E last night running free with her imaginings jump-started mine into indulging a few fancies of its own. Never one to willingly enter anything underground, especially when eight-legged creatures and rodents are involved, I opted to run across the road up-top.  When I saw the actual passageway after eating, I ventured to brave it on the way back.  No spiders nor rats either, I’m happy to report.

Today we toured with our guide Elizabeth.  Cal gave a short meditation before we left the hotel and Elizabeth enthusiastically led us in a spontaneous rendition of “This Is The Day.” We learned a great deal from Elizabeth, the first being that Charlottetown is the birthplace of Canada. New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Nova Scotia, also known as the Maritime Provinces, held a meeting of elected officials over 150 years ago to discuss combining the three provinces.  Representatives came to present their ideas of forming a much larger union, a country.  It was the beginning of Canada.

We stopped for a photo op of the Harbor; the cannons still in place are reminders of the dangers faced by early inhabitants of the Islands.  We passed by the House where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge stayed during a recent visit.  Elizabeth shared a wealth of historical knowledge as Dave slowly cruised the streets.  I enjoyed it thoroughly.  The locals were very polite although they likely found us annoying at times.  Who, us? Annoying?  Well, yes.

Oats, wheat, and barley are grown on PEI and an experimental farm, started in 1949, continues to research in an ongoing effort to provide the best possible crops for the provinces.  Somewhat like our own OARDC, I imagine. There are fifteen hundred farms on PEI with the number one export, potatoes.  All of the Burger King French fries in Canada and the U.S. are supplied by PEI potatoes. Fourteen of the dairy operations are totally automated with robots doing the milking.  The jersey cows wander about at will inside the barns and are milked whenever they wish to be.  Pampered and fed with precisely measured and optimal foods, they aren’t all that far removed from the harems of kings. (My commentary, not the tour guide’s.) PEI has three wind farms with around seventy turbines and, according to Elisabeth, these have been much help with power needs.

The high iron oxide content in the soil makes it red, not blood dripping from murdered and tortured souls, as Anne Shirley imagined.

The Amish came to the Island about a year ago.   Since they wish to remain separate from any government programs they have found a way to sooth their religious angst regarding Canada’s universal health care.  The amount of money spent by the government for their health care is given to a charity of their choosing.  Or so Elizabeth says.

We drove through rolling farmland, planted with potatoes, barley, corn, wheat, and Paul thought he saw some hemp.  Beautiful scenery that reminded me of Lancaster’s Big Valley, spread out on both sides of the highway.  Unlike Lancaster though, we caught glimpses of the ocean on both sides as well.

Cow’s Creamery was our next stop.  I was anticipating this one the most after having sampled their ice-cream aboard the ferry yesterday.  Mooey Gooey is my favorite so far.  But there are many more flavors to sample so who’s to say it will remain thus?!  Fun Fact Number One:  This creamery is known world-wide, except in Holmes County Ohio, it seems.  They are known for their pun-filled t-shirts that use popular culture as their inspiration.  Of course I had to buy a couple of squishy cows, stuffed, not real, for the littlest granddaughters back home.

A quick walk to the Anne of Green Gables Chocolate Store and my wallet was lighter when I left.  Chocolate covered lobsters and cow chips for the oldest granddaughters.

We spent almost an hour at the Prince Edward Island Preserve Company where owner Bruce climbed aboard and welcomed us.  Fun Fact Number Two:  What’s a jitterbug?  A Scotsman who doesn’t want to pay to use the toilet.

We sampled delectable, home-made jams, jellies, and spreads of all kinds.  My personal favorites: Lime Curd and Apple Cinnamon Curd.  Yes I bought some for whichever of my family members please me the most after I get home.

Lunch at Chez Yvonne in Cavendish provided the opportunity to try mussels.  If one can ignore how disgusting they look, eating them is doable.  Actually not bad at all.

On the way to Cavendish Beach we learned a lot about Lucy Maude Montgomery who authored the books that awakened my own imagination as I read them, much like the heroine in her stories.  I felt a bit giddy with anticipation at seeing Avonlea and Green Gables.  I was very surprised to find not a rock-strewn shoreline as I had thought I would at Cavendish Beach, but a sandy stretch of land filled with sunbathers and swimmers.  I stuck my toes in and shivered.  No self-respecting Floridian would ever immerse themselves in such frigid waters.  But people from the far north have no such inhibitions.

There is a large population of Japanese on the island, Elizabeth told us.  Fun Fact Number Three: credit goes to a missionary who had Anne of Green Gables, the book, with her in Japan.  Eventually the book was translated into Japanese and many of them came to PEI to see where all this fictional stuff took place.  I’m oversimplifying but it all led to many Japanese people moving to the island. Frequently they travel here to be married in the same house where Lucy Maude Montgomery was married. They try to recreate things as they were in the books, even going so far as hiring girls to be Anne in their weddings.  Life, as they say, really is stranger than fiction.

And finally, Green Gables and Avonlea!  The village is all for tourists.  But then why shouldn’t it be.  It’s not like a fictional character actually needs a place to live.  But I feel kind of like LM Montgomery.  When asked if Anne was real she would hesitate and feel like she had committed violence against her heroine when she said “no.”

Touring Green Gables was much more satisfying.  The house belonged to an aunt and uncle of Montgomery’s and she spent many hours there growing up. It is likely she found much inspiration for her stories there.  We hiked the lovely Haunted Wood and Lover’s Lane.  In the house I saw the pantry where Anne’s mouse found its romantic end in the plum sauce. Anne’s bedroom looked exactly as I imagined it, minus the tree outside her window. Yes, again I’m confusing fact and fiction. I was delighted to discover that there are still a number of Montgomery’s books I haven’t read.  I promptly bought two of them. I’m looking forward to many hours of enjoyment.

Back on the road again with more information about the island from Elizabeth. Fun Fact Number Four: Spreading manure is called nutrient distribution.

Fun Fact Number Five:  The tartan of our guide’s skirt is symbolic.  I was unable to hear of what.

Six hundred souls inhabit the small town of Rustico, near the tourist village of Avonlea.  Beaches line both sides of the highway.  Bait Shacks, weathered and faded red are still used regularly.  Tourist shops sprout up like weeds to mar the landscape. otherwise steeped in a rich history of the seafaring people who live there.  Although I found the stores an eyesore I rushed right in with all the other tourists to buy things we do not need for the grandkids back home.

And our final stop of the day before heading back to the hotel: Fisherman’s Wharf for a much-anticipated lobster supper.  The place was packed with diners, most of them wearing lobster bibs and piling their plates high at the food bars stretched from end-to-end along one side of the building.  Heaping plates of mussels, salads, hot foods, desserts, all consumed with gusto.  My lobster was mighty fine.  Elizabeth said she eats all of hers except the shell.  I, however, drew the line at eating the body.  It looked a little too much like yesterday’s food, post-rejection by my stomach.  I will stick with the claws and tail, thank-you.

We waddled into our hotel and were delighted to find a lovely place.  Our rooms opened into an indoor courtyard of sorts.  It resembled a lane with street lamps and all.  Chairs, sofas, and tables were grouped about, perfect for quiet conversation and we made full use of them before drifting into the dining area to play a few card games before turning in.

A very full day.  A very fine one.